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Well we never found the particular store we were looking for, but found some corners in medieval Montepulciano that we had never seen before, so that was nice.

Took a few of these beautiful faces in one of the many churches here.

And just in case you aren’t familiar with the Italian version of “up”, here are a few examples. Both ways.

When we got home, I channeled my inner Italian washer wife and hand washed a few things to get us through the next two weeks before coming home. There are probably worse places to do laundry.

We picked up fixings for another charcuterie dinner and Don bought a bottle of wine and we were all set for a nice, budget friendly dinner.

As you can see, Don can’t help buying more wine to hoard.

AND we have limoncello and orange biscotti for dessert. Yay Italy!!

Tomorrow we are doing a day trip to an Italian village with hot springs. This should be interesting!

Tiny Pienza is so quaint, you almost can’t bear it. Things built on top of things, built on top of things, it has existed since around 1100. One shop we were in had a secret tunnel to the Palazzo Piccolomini, for escape during sieges, and a still operating well that was hand dug 20 meters down.

We got up early and headed towards Pienza for a coffee and croissant. Got there about 9:30, which was pretty good for us, and learned that early is definitely the way to go in these picturesque villages. Very few people there at that time – earlier would have been even better. I couldn’t wait to get shooting before the other tourists arrived in throngs – which they did.

Oh to wander in such a beautiful place. We have been here before – twice over the years – and it is still as stunning as ever.

First order of business (delayed only briefly by my shooting the deserted alleyways) was to make a reservation for lunch at the same restaurant we had enjoyed before. I carefully learned how to ask for a reservation at 12:30, but of course their English was impeccable.

Imagine this piazza less than two hours later, teaming with tourists and guides and locals walking their dogs. By then, we were sitting under a grape arbor enjoying lunch.

You simply must put Pienza on your bucket list.

And have I mentioned the cheese!?! Pecorino Di Pienza (fresca – not the old hard kind) – omg, that alone is worth the trip. But don’t try to get it in Vancouver – believe me, I’ve tried. Joan can vouch for how good this is – she’s been here too. Add a little real honey and you have a glimpse of heaven.

By now, it was time for lunch. Back at our little restaurant, there was a table, reserved just for us. The restaurant looks empty, but within 20 minutes the place was packed solid.

On the way back to our car we bought the fixings for a charcuterie dinner with cheese, salami, prosciutto cotto, tomatoes, cucumber and real French butter. Oh – and some nice wine.

On the way back we made sure to get a shot of this tiny Cappella Della Madonna Di Vitaleta.

And a pic of this Tuscan Castello.

Here is Montepulciano from a distance.

Finally – after a great day – we are back at our little home away from home.

All is good, all is well with our world – just putting that out to the universe.

Let’s see if my keyboard wants to cooperate today.

We arrived in Montepulciano at about lunchtime and found our little home away from home for the next five nights. What a luxury not to have to pack up any time soon. Also, there is a little washing machine, whose appearance is very timely.

We visited here quite a few years ago and it is nice to be back, and somewhat familiar with where everything is (up of course!).

And a sweet little kitchen – even I am ready for some home cooked dinners. I wonder what Don will make for us?

Here is my favourite photo of the trip so far, a guy from Brazil (as it turns out), playing a wonderful version of Hallelujah on the steps of an ancient church.

Here are some peeks from our wandering to and from lunch.

We can see that beautiful temple, the Temple of St. Biagio from our window. Since we face due west, I can’t wait for the most amazing sunsets from our very own window.

We are now about halfway through our four week travels, and having to come to grips with the fact that when you revisit places you went to many years ago, you may not have the same energy you had then! Good thing that the entire point of this trip is just to wander, and eat, and enjoy and relax. Rest needs to be added in there too now, even for Don, who insists he is just closing his eyes. Also we are very thankful for Google Maps – having negotiated our way from Greece to northern Scotland during our three month honeymoon in 1985, we know it is possible, but are more than glad that we no longer have to negotiate our route using only a paper map.

So many things to be grateful for . . .

If you have been here, you know, if you haven’t, here is a perfect illustration.

Luckily, there is usually a doorway for any pedestrians to jump into. And yet the Italian drivers confidently zoom down at almost normal speed.

Assisi is absolutely gorgeous. If ever you are looking for a wonderful medieval village to spend some time in, where the food and wine is a bit cheaper and the views around every corner are to die for, this is the one.

As one might expect, there are loads of churches, chapels and cathedrals.

We slowly made our way to the highest point at the far end of the village, to the ruins of the Rocco Maggiore fortress. We met a lovely Irish lady who is an artist and here with her son, who is a writer, for an artistic retreat. Though she was out exploring and apparently her son was still in bed.

From up here it is easy to see why this spot was strategically chosen in order to spot any would be invaders.

Definitely would give the home advantage to Assisi.

I might have to revisit my door obsession while I am here.

As you can see, around every corner is a masterpiece.

Don is just finishing up his crossword, so I am going to join him on our patio. I will leave you with the 5:00 pm bells.

So our new friend did not disappoint at lunch the following day. We headed down there at the duly appointed time and, with only four other guests in attendance, were treated to a food and wine tasting extravaganza. Of course Don’s first thoughts were “how much is this going to cost!?!”. That was before I kicked him under the table. Who cares!?! There are times when you will be rewarded by just going with the flow, and this is one of those times.

I already forget how much it was – not that much.

Back at our hotel there is this wonderful vintage picture of a grape harvest parade.

All there was left to do was wait for our much anticipated dinner at our favourite restaurant in the world, Ristoro di Lamole. We have been there at least six times (twice on one trip) and it never disappoints. One of the owners, Phillipo, who has always served us, took one look at me and said “oh. My. God!”. Grabbed my hand and when he saw Don his also and commented that Don’s moustache hadn’t changed!

Yep – we’re back! And we’ll have our usual starters: pear and pecorino ravioli in brown butter, pacchieri with mushrooms and truffles.

The sun set during our meal was spectacular.

As we neared the end of the meal, Fillipo reminded us to save a little room for the. . . And he pointed at me to finish the sentence . . . LIMONCELLO!!

We did not have a repeat performance of the year that we pretty much finished the whole bottle of complementary limoncello, but we enjoyed a glass each before rolling down the hill to our hotel, only about five minutes drive away.

This morning we headed for Assisi. Travel days are not always our best days and for some reason Google Maps thought we should take the scenic route over the hills and onto Don’s new favourite, narrow winding gravel roads.

Jumping forward 2.5 hours, we caught sight of our destination: Assisi

So close, we could almost taste it.

Back on speaking terms, we wound our way up through the town, following Google’s instructions faithfully. Until it said we were there and there didn’t seem to be a there there.

“We passed it”. “What do we do now?” “Find a place to park and I will walk back to see where it is.” “I can’t move – the line of cars in front of me is backing up!” “Well then back up!” I shout as a tiny car threatens to back right into us, followed by three giant busses.

So Don does a U-turn on the spot and pulls in, as much as is possible, to let everyone else go by while we figure out where we are going. The little car zooms by, but the bus driver starts to honk. Not just any honk, but the king of all honks.

Don moves forward a little bit, but he is not going anywhere without his navigator and I am out of the car by this time and about twenty feet behind him and the bus. He moves an inch forward,

But not good enough for the bus driver, who wants him to keep going – HONK! HONK HONK!

By this time, I have seen the driveway to our hotel, so am hurrying up and level with the bus and can see that he could just go around – no one is coming the other way – but he doesn’t want to do that. And just at that moment an Italian angel comes out of nowhere, pounds on his door to make the bus driver open it, and gives him holy hell for making so much noise and telling him to just go around for God’s sake – Mamma Mia!!

I joined in in English, yelling – Yeah! Just go around for God’s sake as I passed by him and managed to get parallel with Don to show him the driveway to our hotel, which was right there. Unfortunately by the time I got to him, he was just a few inches too far to make the sharp turn, so we waited ever so patiently for the nasty bus driver to just go around, before making the turn to our own little sanctuary.

Don’s quote of the day: I’m not getting in that car again until we have to leave!

So that’s our little drama for today. The room though – is totally worth it. Check out this view.

We didn’t want to leave. But we were hungry so headed out to find somewhere nearby for a quick bite.

Now we’re back here enjoying our view, a bit of white wine, and just waiting for dinner so we can go to a place someone said had the “best lasagne anywhere”. I sure hope so!

As we bid arrivederci to our place at La Rimbecca, we were not altogether sad to see the last of that damn road!

First stop enroute to our next lodgings – lunch at Osteria Fonterutoli. Reservations duly made in advance, we had a lovely table in the garden.

Here comes the food porn:

Then it was off to another previously unknown accommodation, Castellinuzza – way up in the hills above Greve, on the road to Lamole. This place is stunning, so I will let the photos speak for themselves.

Of course, there is always “something”, and the something here is that there are no restaurants nearby, except the expensive (but so worth it) Ristoro di Lamole (where we have reservations for tomorrow night) and a place with a handmade sign saying “Monday night sunset pizza!” That we had driven past on our way up to Castellinuzza. These are the only two options within ten miles of us on a narrow, steep, and winding (but paved) road.

So after a lovely swim and a glass of wine that our hostess poured for Don when he just went looking for two wine glasses,

we headed back down the hill to try the sunset pizza. Monday nights only apparently. Good News! It’s Monday night! Bad News! No reservation!!

Turns out it’s a tiny little spot way down a gravel drive (grr) with a few tables outside all set up – totally empty – but the owner called to us and after determining that we did not have a rezzo, he was very sorry but no pizza for us! I assumed it was due to seating, and suggested that we could eat our pizza on the bench nearby, but no, alas, it was the fact that he only had enough pizza dough for the number of reserved guests, and could we come back tomorrow?

With Don growling and hangry behind me, I said yes please! Lunch? To which the owner said to come at 12:30 and he would make us something special because we were nice. Oh yes . . . We’re going!

Since we were halfway to Greve anyway, we went back to our pizza guy at La Cantina and he was so happy to see us again – shook our hands and chef’s kiss. I’m not sure his English was proficient enough to catch Don’s “it’s the only place to get a good pizza around here”, but he appreciated the repeat visit.

Tomorrow – now that we have lunch and dinner reservations nearby – is going to be about relaxing, Don doing his crosswords, me taking pics and reading my book,

swimming in the beautiful infinity pool and having it all to ourselves (where is everyone!?!) and probably throw a nap in there somewhere between a big lunch and a big dinner. All the while taking in the most glorious 180 degree view of absolute perfection. This is exactly why we love Italy – not necessarily the things you do, but the feeling you get when you just take the time to look around you and appreciate the timeless beauty here.

Having done nothing but swim, eat and drink all day, I am a little short on content this evening. So here is an immersive video for you to experience the Ancient Roman Road right along with us. (Though just having watch it, it really doesn’t do justice to the roller coaster feeling from in the car.)

We decided to skip the crowds at the Panzano wine festival – we’ve been there before and you pay for a glass, which entitles you to tastes from all the winemakers, but you also have to pretend to be interested in their spiel about their techniques, yada yada. Instead, we headed back into Greve for a little lunch and then to take a round out of the huge wine cellar that has a huge selection of pour it yourself wine from the region. You get a little card, put it into the slot above the wine you want to try and select from three different size pours. This way you can try a lot of wines, including the pricier ones, by choosing the smallest pour (taster sized) at a reasonable price.

So that was fun.

Here is a photo of the main square in Greve

For some reason, we had a guest at lunch. He didn’t eat much . . .

Then it was back to the pool for the afternoon. Tough, eh? Tomorrow we change locations, but not too far. We are heading up into the hills of Chianti to another place we have never been before. Although the family who runs the place we are in now are absolutely wonderful, we have not loved the road (having chosen not to take the Roadside package!) or the inability to just walk to a grocery store or restaurant of any kind. I’m not sure about the next place either, except that it closer to our favourite restaurant in the world – Ristoro di Lamole – and I am pretty sure that the road is paved. Fingers crossed. If not, I am never going to stop hearing about it.

Two nights there and then we are on to Assisi, which should be fun because we have only seen it from a distance and never actually explored the historical village at all. Stay tuned for that one!

We had nothing to do today but go to lunch. So we had a little swim, read our books and did pretty much nothing until it was time to get ready to go to lunch. Made a reservation yesterday – these days a reservation is totally necessary if you want to sit anywhere but the back bench beside either the kitchen or the bathroom.

The place we had chosen for today was recommended on a Facebook page I follow, but also by our host, who is a friend of the owner. He told us, if you want to go, just let me know, I will WhatsApp him and you will have a table. But we made it the old fashioned way, by ourselves, and set out to find this new off the beaten track hidden gem.

And off the beaten track it really was. Basically ”the other way” from anything.

Don’s new favourite phrase is “where the hell are you taking me?”

But we did find it and the view was spectacular.

The couple ahead of us didn’t have a reservation (!) – they got a table against the furthest wall away from the view. Then us – ah! Reservation? Si? Please follow me.

This was our table:

Here comes a little food porn for you, you’re welcome.

Chef’s kiss.

Thinking ahead to our next meal, as you do, we don’t have a restaurant within walking distance of our place, so thought we would take home about half of our lunch to reheat for dinner.

Don called the server over and asked if it would be possible to take the rest home.

“Take out! Eat later is dog food! Eat it!” Was the passionate reply. I said a vehement “No!” To the dog food comment. Defeated, the server shrugged and said, “so you want a box?”. Sorted. Then of course we ordered Tiramisu and limoncello.

Happily heading home on the gravel road, we came across a lot of men surrounding a van that got stuck in a giant divet in the road, of course blocking passage by anyone going either way.

Luckily, the guy in front of us came to the window and said that there was another way out if we turned around, so we actually got out and with the help of Google Maps, headed in the direction of our accommodations again.

The one downside of our place, which is actually very nice and run by a lovely young family, is that it is at the end of 1.6 kms of the original Roman road between Greve in Chianti and Rimbecca (where was are staying, which was originally a lookout).

And believe me, it is no joke! Another kudo to zero deductible insurance.

Once home, it was nap/pool time, depending on which of us you are, and the hens were all over the place, including a very vocal one. I will try to upload the video.

Now we are watching the European swimming championships with Italian commentary and waiting until we can turn out the lights. Still not sleeping well even though we are into the new time zone. We are hoping for a decent night’s sleep tonight!

Bonne Notte a tutti . . .

This morning we were just a moment too late to capture the entirety of this beautiful cake.

Our hostess makes the most incredible breakfast cakes (yes! – I have found my country!!), including the one I had again this morning, an olive oil cake made with regular and almond flour. Laced with European butter and drizzled with honey from their own bees. Heaven on a plate.

Here’s us back in our room, planning our day. Or as I like to call it, me trying to show Don the difference between a photo of something and a selfie.

Then it was on to a luxe winery at Castello di Paneretta. Had to make a reservation, which turned out to be worth it and for which we were the only people on the tour.

A nice young man met us at the gate and showed us the current wine in process, the cellars, and the dining room of the castle, which dates in part from the 16C. Sold to current owners in 1984 and they have renovated and continued to expand and improve the existing wine production.

After the tour came the tasting – the best part of course – and we really did learn some things we had never heard before.

Back to our lodgings for a nap (me) and a lounger by the pool (Don) before we headed out to an old favourite for dinner.

The first time we were in Volpaia, we had lunch or dinner at a tiny outside bistro and noticed that there was a small gang of neighbourhood dogs, carousing around and living their best lives. One of them was a tiny wiener dog that the lady told us was called Arturo. He lived up the street and went home at night. He might have been one of the reasons we ended up with two wiener dogs a few years later.

Anyway, Arturo is long gone, but we still love little Volpaia, so we headed up there today to find some pizza for an early dinner. We shared an outdoor table with three charming ladies, two from Nova Scotia and one from Holland. Then had a stroll around the medieval centre of the village.

Tiny and picturesque, including two churches for what can’t be more than a handful of permanent residents.

So that’s it for today – who knows what tomorrow will bring!?!

If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em as they say. Ordering a caffe latte has not netted me exactly what I have been hankering for so this morning I joined the rank and file and said yes to a cappuccino. How gorgeous is this?

Gone in three sips, but you can always order another one.

Duly caffeinated, we headed out for an easy day in Greve.

Because we have been in Greve quite a few times now, I didn’t actually take any photos of it. Probably should have taken one of the piazza, just for posterity.

We are still feeling quite jet lagged and so got a couple of bottles of water and found a locals’ bench. These aren’t just for locals, but tell that to the two ladies with canes, shopping bags and the tops of their knee-highs showing or the tiny elderly lady who said buongiorno to us as she walked by.

Had lunch at one of our favourite places – the owner is a Character (to say the least). Start with a free welcome drink of Prosecco (I get both glasses because Don doesn’t like it), good food, and a free dessert. At dinner, you get a free limoncello or vin sante. Their family also has a winery (of course) and have named their wine after themselves, Mamma, Pappa and this guy, Alessandro.

The rain that was forecast to arrive at about 4:00 arrived – with a bang – at about 1:00. We were sitting outside, but moved to under a big umbrella as the staff scrambled to uncover the tables and stack the chairs. There is something quite magical about sitting outside, dry under the umbrella , and sipping wine while the rain, thunder and lightning unleash their wrath.

So we had another glass of wine and waited for the storm to pass, which it didn’t, and eventually we had to say “Ciao!” And head off into the torrent. It was a similar situation when we met with a bunch of family members here in 2024 – pouring rain and pizza boxes over our heads for cover. Good times.

Back to our place for a nap. Nothing to do but wait it out. After I moved the fallen tree out of the road for Don to pass, that is.

Napping with the rain as a lullaby is one of my favourite things.

And then , as if by magic . . . The sun returned and made everything beautiful again.

We headed down to the pool area, got another bottle of wine, and enjoyed the fresh smell of olive groves after a rain.

Not the most exciting day, but then that is not the goal of this particular trip. This trip is for just savouring the experience of this beautiful country, these beautiful people and the beautiful weather – whatever that may happen to be.

Tomorrow is the first day of the Panzano Wine Festival. We will definitely be hitting that up, and parking where the locals park – cuz we feel just the tiniest bit like locals this time around.

Ok – not really, but it was raining and there were chickens!

We are staying in a different place this time for our stay in Greve in Chianti. Situated just out of Panzano, this place is very remote (you may have heard Don cursing on the last two kms of vertical gravel road to our restored medieval farmhouse and outbuildings). It is still a working farm, producing wine, honey and olive oil. And fresh eggs apparently.

We only stopped long enough to drop our bags and then took the same (and only) route back out, with somewhat less cursing on Don’s part. It’s going to get better once we are used to it. This road is one of the many reasons we spring for zero deductible insurance!

So back to Panzano to a restaurant that we remembered from previous visits. These days, they are all about the reservations, so as walk ins, we were seated as far away from the view seats as humanly possible. But we know about this and it is just the way it is – when we can, we make reservations.

But because of this seating, we met the nicest Dutch couple (also walk ins) who had just gotten engaged – at the opera in Verona!

And we had the kind of wonderful conversation with complete strangers that you only seem to have when you are traveling.

We were feeling quite proud of ourselves, getting our car at Avis, negotiating the toll gates to the highway, arriving at our accommodations without getting lost, and parking in the lot only the locals know about. And we saved a bunch – Avis offered to take care of the tolls for the sum of 10 euros per day, which would amount to about 190 euros. We’re like – what? – the tolls aren’t that much – so hard pass. She tried to negotiate a few euros off – still no. Then we went through the toll and it cost 80 cents. Won’t face another toll until the one day we head to Assisi – might be a few euro. Now THAT is a racket – designed for travellers who might think the tolls are expensive and Avis is doing them a big favour by taking care of them. Hah!

Panzano is a small village only about 10 kilometres past Greve. And they just happen to be having their annual wine festival while we are here. Almost like we planned it.

So back down our road to our place and out to the pool. We just got settled in the lounge chairs when we started to feel the sparkle of tiny rain on a hot day. None of the guests moved – it felt really nice.

Then there were the free range (and this is the best kind of free) chickens. Clucking all around us, they were here and there finding all kinds of seeds and whatever they were looking for.

Now the sun has set and Don is trying to stay awake by watching girls U20 soccer (China v. Italy) narrated in Italian. Another early night trying to get over geriatric jet lag, which is no joke by the way.

So Buona Notte from beautiful Tuscany – we can hardly wait to see what tomorrow brings. xx

Travel days are harder when you are older. That is a new truth. [Insert a lot of grumbling here.}

However, all is forgiven after a quick swim in an unheated pool and that first icy drink on the Piazza Della Signoria, watching the passing peasants (“other” tourists who haven’t had the sense to stop and get a drink yet!) and contemplating pizza choices.

Still worth it. The desserts at this place look amazing. As I was taking a pic, the waiter jokingly turned off the light on the glass case – I guess they have to get their kicks where they can in tourist season.

There was a loud table of tourists just behind Don and in my line of sight. I can’t fault them too much (though there were definitely a few cringy things), but every time the waiter turned away from a seemingly happy and engaging interaction with them, he had a “look”. I couldn’t blame him really, they were obviously going to be big tippers. I told Don that I really wanted to go over and talk to the one lady, who seemed to be “in charge” and let her know that the word is pronounced “Gra-tzee-eh” and not “Gratzee”. On our last trip, an Italian asked me why oh why the Americans pronounced it this way.

Don’t worry – I didn’t.

Then on the way home we saw a huge Diner en Blanc starting to take shape. Long tables and beautiful people.

We did manage to stay up until 9pm.

This morning we got an early start – even though we had absolutely nothing planned for the day. Except to take some exceptional shots as we wandered.

The Arno was so calm.

Lunch was at a steak place (as it turns out). Anyone who has eaten with us in the last year or so knows we have to share things, and I don’t know if you know about Florentine steaks, but they are massive and for sharing with the whole family. Although the young Chinese couple next to us actually ordered a pasta each, with a steak to follow. We wanted to see it, but finished and left before the steak arrived.

We shared bruschetta and a wild boar pasta, and we couldn’t even finish that. You could smell the garlic as the bruschetta was being served and oh . . . the tomatoes . . .

Back to our room for a two hour nap and we are back at the pool. Next stop – dinner! Ah la vita Bella . . .

If anyone of our readers is still out there, please drop a like on this post so I know you’re there. We are leaving on Sunday so stay tuned for some great pictures and some new posts. Ciao. 

Today we headed in the opposite direction from the area we have already explored, and saw one of the ancient city gates, complete with gargoyles, intended to scare any bad guests away.

Apparently the ancient bad guys were more easily scared than the current ones. Which reminds me, I haven’t mentioned the topic of safety in Sicily. We have felt absolutely safe everywhere we have been, even in the little back lanes where tourists probably shouldn’t have wandered (but we did anyway). There is poverty in the back lanes for sure, but nothing half as scary as the DTES of Vancouver on its best day.

We definitely spotted more pick pockets in Florence (and haven’t actually identified any here in Sicily) and are returning home with all of our valuables in tact.

Puppets are big here on Sicily and our balcony is just across from a popular venue for puppet shows. We can hear the Punch and Judy style voices, drumming and music as we sit here watching the world go by.

Just enough time to squeeze in one last church, Gesu di Casa Professa. All Baroque, all the time.

And not all cherubs are cute, just sayin’

So that’s it for churches on this trip. We have seen some doozies!

Time to fortify myself for some cannoli and an affogato, because Don sent me out to shop all by myself.

Here is what I didn’t get for the boys. You’re welcome guys.

All shopping accomplished, we are now getting ready to head to our anniversary dinner at a famous roof top terrace here called 7. This time, we actually have a reservation, so no repeats of last night. Here is the view during daylight:

This is how it looked when the sun set:

You can never go wrong when you start with a Cosmopolitan.

Palermo is a beautiful city – on the way home we stopped to listen to a street performer and our photo was taken for the local newspaper (not really).

We have spent the day reflecting on the last forty years – on balance, they have all been pretty good. Ups and downs of course, but when times are tough, we are each other’s person and that is worth a lot. How many more years do we have? Who knows? But we intend to spend all the time we have seeking the beauty in life and enjoying our growing family. Not to mention any favourites (Kaiden) – we love them all and can’t wait to get home to them.

xx

Jan and Don