Riomaggiore – Cinque Terre

Riomaggiore – Cinque Terre

So overnight the day we arrived the most terrific thunder and lightning storm rolled in and it was amazing. We were all up (hard to stay sleeping), watching the thunder gods do their thing in the most dramatic way. Delivering some much needed rain to this area. All in one go.

Needless to say, this was going to be an inside day for us four, and none of us minded a bit.

I had a warning from one of my Facebook pages about the storm and that here in the CT, they have learned from the past floods and now close down not only the trails, but also any stores that do not have a back entrance, which is most of them. In about 2012, Vernazza was decimated and lives were lost as massive amounts of water, mud and debris washed down the tiny street from top to bottom, with some shop owners being trapped and killed in their shops. So they take these weather warnings very seriously, as they should.

Forewarned, the night before we had armed ourselves with some meats, cheeses, tomatoes, burratas, and wine so that we would be able to hunker down happily.

Our homemade dinner

We played cards and listened to the rain until bedtime.

This morning, the sun was out and all was well with the world.

Mornings at Casa Lorenza always start with a cheery note under the door, announcing that breakfast had been left for us just outside our door.

Good Morning! I wish you a beautiful day . . .
Riomaggiore harbour

Then it was off to Vernazza. We had planned to take the ferry, but due to continuing high winds, all ferries were cancelled today. No worries, the train is good too.

Down the narrow, winding road to the harbour – it is just as spectacular as we remember.

We stopped for a couple of must have shots and a quick drink (juice for three of us, beer for one – at 10:30 am!) and then headed up to the first 15 minutes of the hike between Vernazza and Monterosso for the money shot.

Here are a couple of wandering the back streets shots:

Time for lunch! We headed to the Cafe Luca, the closest place to the waterfront. The food and service were spectacular, and the crashing waves were over the top. Literally.

Our waiter’s name was Michael(eh), and when our order was easy, Dave remarked, “See, we’re easy!”, to which he replied, “I am too!”. Now we’re old friends.

Check out these meals:

This lasagne doesn’t look like much, but it was amazing
Perfecto!

Yum, yum and yummer.

Before we left from home, there was one thing I really wanted to do, and that was to visit a wonderful little morning restaurant that we had found in upper Vernazza (where tourists rarely go), called Il Pirati. In 2007, when we were last there, it was owned by Sicilian twin brothers, one of whom was a pastry chef. At that time, I got this photo of one of the brothers and myself:

Today, I got a photo with the self-proclaimed “better looking brother” and presented him with a copy of the other one.

He was thrilled and the other employees crowded around to see him from the olden days. Then they served us the most magnificent dessert and iced coffees.

Get a napkin, because you are going to drool.

Cannoli with pistachio cream and panna cotta with fresh berries
Happy, happy campers

With full tummies and happy hearts, we all headed back to our little slice of heaven for some serious quiet time.

The only plan for the rest of the evening is to have a light supper at our place, drink some more wine, and a rematch on the gin rummy game. Oh yeah – and watch the sun go down over the Ligurian Sea (not the Adriatic – I stand corrected!).

A domani everyone . . .


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